Patagonia Between Trails and Friends

“You have to come to Patagonia.”

After all, I’d already taken Simon Cudby and Randy Commans, also known as Offroadunderground, through the dusty trails of Northern Argentina, shooting alongside 2x Dakar Champion Kevin Benavides.

That trip left its mark. It became a pact, sealed with throttle and dust: one ride together, every year.

In 2023, Simon and Randy hosted me in Iceland. Endless fjords, volcanic trails, otherworldly landscapes. It was surreal. And in 2024, it was my turn again. Patagonia was calling.

So I started doing what every good riding buddy does: I harassed them. Texts, DMs, the occasional Patagonia photo bombed their inboxes. I gave them no choice. By mid-October, the dynamic duo had landed at Ezeiza, Buenos Aires’ international airport, after 16 long hours from Los Angeles. I was there, waiting at Ezeiza with that kind of restless excitement you only get when a trip is about to begin.

Simon had his camera gear slung across his shoulder, ready to frame the world. Randy wore that same grin he had on the dry riverbeds of Northern Argentina, the one that says: ‘Let’s do something unforgettable.’ We were back. And Patagonia was waiting.

Mendoza Height and the First Tracks

Our first destination: Mendoza. A province where the sun seems to shine with intent and the Andes rise like a promise in the distance. It’s known for world-class wine, yes, but for us, it marked the true start of the ride.

After a short 1 hour and 45 minute flight from Buenos Aires, we landed in Mendoza, where our local ally Julián Quiroga was waiting. Logistics, gear, route. He had it all dialed in. And most importantly, the bikes.

Our mounts for this leg came from Gas Gas Palmares, a local dealership based in Godoy Cruz. They set us up with two Gas Gas enduro bikes, tough, responsive, and right at home in the Andes.

From the dealership, we hit Ruta Nacional 7, a legendary road that snakes west through the province, hugging the Mendoza River and pointing straight into the heart of the mountains. As we climbed in altitude, the scenery shifted fast, with vineyards and plains giving way to rock cliffs and snowy peaks. We passed tunnels carved into the hills, felt the air grow thinner, and the sky wider.

After about 70 miles (110 kilometers), we reached Uspallata, a small town tucked into the valley of the same name.It felt like the kind of place that only exists at the edge of something greater. And it was.

Out there, in the open, a group of friends welcomed us the best way locals know how: with an asado. In the middle of the Andes, under a sky that looked hand-painted, we rolled up to the scent of wood smoke and grilled meat. A vegetarian option was on the fire too, Simon’s plate already spoken for. That small detail said everything about the people we were riding with. In this land, hospitality meets you before anything else.

Then the riding began.

Aconcagua loomed in the distance, towering at 22,837 feet (6,961 meters), the highest peak in the Americas. Its presence felt permanent, carved into the background like a myth. The trails around Uspallata were dry, technical, raw. Tight switchbacks, loose rocks, steep ridges. The kind of terrain where every decision counts, and every photo feels earned.

Simon was in his element, his camera never resting. Randy and I moved through the landscape like it had been waiting for us, two riders framed by the lens of a friend who knew exactly when to press the shutter.

Adventure Motorcycle Travel Patagonia Argentina

Riding to the Shadow of the Lanín

Leaving Mendoza meant parting ways with our Gas Gas companions. We returned the bikes to the generous folks at Gas Gas Palmares in Godoy Cruz, grateful for their support in kickstarting our journey. With our gear packed, we pointed south, toward Patagonia, toward the next chapter.

The road ahead stretched for more than 750 miles (1,200 kilometers), linking two worlds. We followed Ruta Nacional 40, Argentina’s legendary spine of asphalt and dust that runs alongside the Andes. It took us through small towns, shifting terrains, and stretches of road where the landscape speaks louder than words.

As we crossed into Neuquén Province, everything changed. The greens became deeper, the air cooler, the silence heavier. Then, it appeared: Volcán Lanín, rising 12,293 feet (3,742 meters), snow-capped and massive against the southern sky. Lanín rises above everything, silent. Impossible to miss.
From the road, we caught it in glimpses: between forests, past bends, above valleys. Each turn pulled us closer to San Martín de los Andes, where the forest meets the lake, and the real heart of Patagonia begins to show itself.

San Martín de los Andes,
Gateway to Patagonia

Reaching San Martín de los Andes felt like rolling into a different world. Tucked against the shores of Lago Lácar, the town marks a natural gateway to deep Patagonia. The landscape shifted dramatically. Gone were the ochres and browns of the desert, replaced by dense forests, wildflowers, and the smell of wet earth.

Even the wind felt different here.

We had left our Gas Gas enduros behind in Mendoza, and now it was time for a new kind of ride. Big Trail Argentina had lined up two KTM 790 Adventure R bikes for us, tall, aggressive, and ready for long days over varied terrain. Within minutes, we were geared up and chasing shadows through pine-lined trails.
From San Martín, we took the Ruta de los Siete Lagos, one of Argentina’s most iconic stretches of road. It winds through the Parque Nacional Lanín, touching seven lakes of unreal blues and greens, each one framed by forest and mountain. The ride is smooth but alive, with curves that flow like a rhythm you don’t want to end.

At every stop, Simon was out of the saddle and behind the lens. Randy and I, his constant moving targets, posed unintentionally, just by riding. The scenery did the rest.

The Paso Córdoba was another highlight, with its winding ripio road slicing through the hills like a trail carved by water. It’s quieter than the main route, but no less striking. Wide-open spaces, dramatic cliffs, and that deep Patagonian silence you learn to love.

At night, the town offered calm. Wood cabins, good meals, and that feeling of being exactly where you’re supposed to be.

Bariloche The Final Stretch

From San Martín de los Andes, we kept riding south, staying on Ruta Nacional 40 as the landscape unfolded around us. The road carried us through more of Patagonia’s signature scenery, with lakes so clear they mirrored the sky, forests thick and endless, and mountain peaks that seemed to drift closer with every mile. Over the next 120 miles (190 kilometers), we passed Lago Espejo, Lago Correntoso, and others, each shimmering beneath towering pines and wide southern skies.

After hours of flowing curves and quick stops for photos, we rolled into San Carlos de Bariloche, the last big dot on our map. Built along the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi, and wrapped inside the national park of the same name, Bariloche is a city with alpine bones and Patagonian soul. Wooden chalets, stone streets, chocolate shops. And beyond it all, mountains calling your name.

On our first day, we geared up for a 125-mile (200-kilometer) ride that would take us into the heart of the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, toward one of the south’s most iconic giants: Cerro Tronador, rising 11,410 feet (3,478 meters). The road took us past Lago Gutiérrez and Lago Mascardi, before turning into gravel and leading us deep into the valley of Pampa Linda. The ride was pure joy. Fast stretches, tight corners, and that rare silence only broken by the distant roar of calving ice echoing down the valley. That deep, thunder-like sound is what gave the mountain its name: Tronador, ‘the Thunderer’.

The highlight? Ventisquero Negro, a rare black glacier stained by the sediment it drags over stone. The contrast between the dark mass and the white peaks around it was surreal.

We closed the day back in town, eating pizza at the base of Cerro Catedral, Bariloche’s famous ski resort. It was the kind of dinner where no one says much, but everyone smiles the same.

The next day was a pause. A breath. We wandered through the city, visited local chocolaterías, and sat down for lunch at Cervecería Patagonia, one of the most scenic beer spots on Earth. The view from the terrace felt unreal: lakes, islands, and mountains stacked on the horizon like a painting in motion.

Then came the final day.

We headed west, riding all the way to the edge of the Chilean border. Close enough to laugh about it, one boot nearly across, but not quite. From there, we dove into the single tracks of Lago Escondido, a tight weave of forest trails, lake views, and pure riding joy. The paths were narrow, technical, and absolutely stunning. At one point, Randy’s voice came through the intercom with that unmistakable tone—calm, honest, just a bit in awe:

“These might be the most beautiful trails I’ve ever ridden.”

Credit where it’s due: we were all linked by our Cardo units, which made it feel like the conversation never stopped, even deep in the forest.

And that was it. One last curve. One last breath of forest air. One last look at Patagonia, not through a lens or a mirror, but through the eyes of three friends who came for a ride and found something more.

Patagonia in the Rearview,
Adventure Ahead

As the trip came to a close, we packed our gear with that quiet rhythm riders know too well. The kind that comes after something meaningful, something that leaves a mark deeper than the dust on your boots or the lines on your GPS.

Over ten days, we crossed provinces, seasons, and moments we didn’t want to end. From the dusty trails of Mendoza to the single tracks near Lago Escondido, every mile had a purpose. And every stop, a story.

If you’re dreaming of exploring Argentina by motorcycle, know this: Patagonia opens its arms between October and March, when the weather is mild, the trails are open, and the landscapes come alive with color and light. It’s the season when flowers bloom, the lakes reflect forever, and the mountains show their best face.

And if you’re wondering how to make a trip like this happen, trust the people who live and breathe these routes. Big Trail Argentina rides with you, sharing the trail, the stories, and the quiet moments in between.

They know the hidden roads, the right time of year, and how to make you feel at home on the other side of the world.

The bikes may be parked now, but the ride stays with us. In the photos Simon captured, in the words we share, and in the unspoken promise:

“See you next year, somewhere wild.”

Follow the Journey

Catch more breathtaking rides and raw moments behind the lens by following Simon Cudby and Randy Commans at @offroadunderground.

And if Patagonia’s trails are calling you, connect with the crew that knows them best—@bigtrailarg, your local gateway to Argentina’s most unforgettable rides.